I think I shall take a slightly different approach to blogging my Parisian travels. Instead of doing “Glimpses of…” posts and the occasional story, I’m aiming to do more of a chronological retelling, although I’m sure I’ll do some photo/food posts too. Do let me know if this idea is horrendously unwanted and makes you want to throw pencil sharpeners at my head. (Just don’t aim for the toe, okay?)
A few posts back I mentioned the fun that was arriving at my Parisian hospital on my second day in Paris, as I’d been instructed to do the day before, only to find it closed. After some irked Skyping to my parents from the Gare Du Nord McDonalds, I was determined to make something lovely of the rest of the day. As I stood up from my McDonalds seat and turned to leave, I saw something in the pastry case that simultaneously made me giggle and my blood run cold.
The Hopital Lariboisiere is in the Montmartre area, so I decided to walk up to the Sacre Coeur* and sit in on its Sunday Mass (where I would hopefully not be smited this time).
Arriving at the Sacre Coeur, I was intrigued to discover that the dome of my head matched the dome of the church. Clearly, Paris and I were fated to love each other.
The service lasted two hours and was well worth it, despite the fact that I couldn’t understand a word. The music and singing are what I remember best, as they were utterly beautiful and heightened the experience magnificently. In fact, I should admit that when the first strains of choral singing began, I started crying. The combination of my emotional state and the beauty of the music made it impossible not to, so I just went with it and held a tissue to my face for a goodly length of time. I have no idea what the people beside me were thinking…
After this, I meandered through the Place du Tertre (which is apparently the place to go if you want your portrait done, and if it weren’t for the logistics of getting paintings home to Australia, I might have) and tried to sneakily photograph a typical Parisian cafe scene complete with croque madame:
Right around the corner from the Place du Tertre is the Espace Dalí, or Dali Museum, which was fantabulous and may be covered in more detail in a future art post, if a future art post happens to exist… in the future.
Music features a fair bit in my recollections of this day, as before the church music I bopped along to Beat It by Michael Jackson while walking through the tourist-centric streets of Montmartre, and outside the Dali Museum stopped to listen to a man on a double bass play Simon and Garfunkel’s The Sounds of Silence.
I also really enjoyed wandering around the less touristy streets of Montmartre, peeking at the buildings and shops and cafes. I ultimately thought it appropriate to finish my day of holy and artsy sightseeing with a trek through Paris’ sex district, predominantly for the obligatory snap in front of the Moulin Rouge.
But instead of boring you with another photo of me, let’s look at something yummy, shall we?

Monoprix' Coeur Fondant Châtaigne. Which translates literally, I believe, into Sweet Chestnut Heaven Get In My Belly.
Can someone please tell me why Lenotre’s treat, which cost 6.60€, was utterly boring and disappointing, while a supermarket chestnut cake which cost 2.60€ for two was like a party in my mouth? True chestnut flavour, caramel fudgy notes in the outer cake and gooey silkiness in the middle… even though I ate both (what, did you expect any less of me? There’s no fridge at this hostel, am I supposed to let things go to waste?) cold rather than hot, these were divine.
It’s always good to end a day on a tasty note, right?
*Okay, so rushing up steep hills and lots and lots of stairs in order to get me to the church on time, so to speak, probably wasn’t my cleverest move. And doing things like that every day during my first week in Paris probably has something to do with the less-than-stellar status of my toe right now. Three more weeks, toe! Just hold out for three more weeks then you can have all the surgery you want!




i love the photos!
What, no sexy photos in the sex district? Ok well fair enough, that dessert is pretty sexy. VERY clever move to eat multiple desserts, you need all the toe strength you can get. Well, unless of course the overindulgence gives you gout. Crap.
Loves les photos. And more writing! I’d read a 65-page thesis for each day of your travels.
Good call not trying to smuggle home a painting. I only managed to get my huge Chinese painting* home because the folks on ANA were too polite to tell me I couldn’t strap it into the seat next to me.
*So, SO ripped off, and to top it off, I realized how horribly tacky the painting just before I was set to return home. I very nearly threw my $80 of acrylic into a bush outside the airport.
Well domehead, that beret has certainly done some travelling. It’s almost like those photos people take of soft toys wherever they go – EXCEPT that inside the beret is YOU and it’s perfecty sensible to have YOURSELF in photos of your travels.
BTW love the chronological post – and, after all, it’s good to mix things up a bit.
Blasphemous though it may be, my friend (who was recently in Paris) tells me the Macca’s macarons are actually not too bad. In the same sense that McDonald’s burgers are not so bad when you judge them in context – ie. “this is a fast food item, not a delicious little morsel from a fine dining establishment”.
Also, I too enjoy the chronological posts. But, then again, I enjoy any posts. So um…do whatever the hell you want and I’ll be happy as a clam.
Ooh it’s sort of a bonus when the supermarket version is tastier. I for one adore the Tesco frozen bannoffee tart and have never had better!
Love the hat too BTW
Oh, I’m crazy about chestnut desserts! It’s such a shame that there aren’t more in the states; I feel like everyone forgets about chestnuts around here as soon as Christmas is over.
Simply Life: Thanks!
Conor: The night I ate both chestnut fondant cakes, I also ate a box of 12 macarons, an entire circle of cheese, and a box of cookies. Actually, I’ve done that (or its ilk) every night, so I hope it does = toe strength. I’m going to resolutely *not* google gout now…
Lauren: Oh!!! Thank you! I really worry when I do too many dense writing posts! And maybe you could paint over the Chinese painting, and make it all post-modern-clashing-cultures-worth-a-million-bucks?
Whisperinggums: I’d never have imagined being called domehead could make me feel all warm and fuzzy. And thank you for the interpretation of my ubiquitous beanie… I’m still planning to burn all my travel clothes when I get home.
L-Izzle: Will it make you even clam-happier to know that I’m eating a baguette right now, JUST FOR YOU?
Lorraine: Thank you! And you’ve made me feel better about the macaron confession I’ll be making at some point
Bittersweet: We don’t even get chestnut desserts at Christmas (or in winter, more like) in Australia, so you’re one-up on me! I’m absolutely determined to try and replicate this, or at least make a chestnut dessert of some description, when I get home.
Heh. Love the Sacre Coeur photos – you look so cute in glasses! Glad to learn the Monoprix dessert was worth eating. I mean, just in case there’s ever a pastry emergency…
Ahhhh! Clam-Happiest!!!!!!!
Camille: Teehee, thank you! On these travels, I’ve only been pulling out the contacts for special people
And somehow I can’t help thinking your idea of a pastry emergency would be forgetting to put the fifth layer of feuilletine in a chocolate-caramel-coffee-pistachio-vanilla cake of heaven in your own kitchen… not buying something from Monoprix
L-Izzle: And I spread it with gooey goats cheese, too.
Oh wow, Monoprix’ Coeur Fondant Châtaigne looks unbelievably delicious. There really isn’t enough chestnut action happening in Australia in my opinion.
I bought some chestnut meal a while ago to make a cake with but subsequently found that most recipes require canned chestnuts, rather than chestnut meal. The only cake I could find that uses meal is a somewhat savoury rosemary and olive oil cake from Italy (Castagnaccio), which was not nearly sweet and delicious enough for me to bother to make!
Happy travels!
Aw, nothing like a good cry in a foreign place
That chesnut thing looks amaaaazing. I am sure that is the exact translation!
I LOVE your hat, so cute!
And I’ve also had a cry in a cathedral – St Paul’s evensong, 1991. I was cold, homesick, awed and ever-so-slightly thrilled to be there.
i am so glad to see you enjoying paris! there are some less touristy parts of montmartre but they’re hard to find…..i like the area near chateau rouge and marcadet….or go toward the mairie of the 18e. great food too of course!
a bientot
the paris food blague
Laura: It wasn’t the last time, either! But you’re right, sometimes it helps. And didn’t you realise I speak fluent French?
Kath: Thank you! It keeps my brain warm. Oh, now I really regret missing out on Evensong at the Liverpool Cathedral. I visited earlier in the day and meant to go back for Evensong, but time slipped away from me… I’m glad I’m not alone in my emotional response, though!
Frogsandmen: Thanks for stopping by! I have absolutely loved Paris, and if I weren’t leaving tonight I would head back to Montmartre and the 18e and explore the areas you mentioned! (I was also really disappointed that L’Etoile d’Or was closed both times I tried to visit…)
Emily: Thank you! And isn’t the lack of chestnut awareness in Australia devastating? Perhaps we should start a chestnut dessert business
And I’ll happily take the chestnut meal off your hands, if it’s going begging…
Great photos! Love your blog.
Sadako: Thank you!
Ha! Well, there was the time the ganache got too thick for my pear tart – it was only a near-disaster, though.
Camille: Ganache is like gorgeous men with nice smiles – even when they’re thick, they still look (and taste) good.
Oh my, that’s cake?! Yum!
Amber: It was (both cake and yum)! I’m so sad the hostel didn’t have a kitchen – while it was wonderful cold, I imagine it would have been utterly heavenly all warm and gooey!